Blackjack Basic Strategy: The Complete Chart, Rules and How to Cut the House Edge

Blackjack basic strategy is a complete set of pre-calculated decisions that tell you the best play for every possible hand you can be dealt against every dealer upcard. It was worked out mathematically — running the odds of every outcome — so you don't have to think about probability at the table. You just look up your hand and follow the chart.

Every decision in basic strategy is based on two things: your hand type (a hard total, a soft total, or a pair) and the dealer's face-up card. That's it. The chart tells you whether to hit, stand, double down, split, surrender, or (for the one insurance decision) decline.

The payoff is concrete: with perfect basic strategy on favourable rules, the house edge drops to around 0.5%. That means for every £100 you wager over the long run, you'd expect to lose about 50p on average — dramatically better than playing on gut instinct, which can hand the house several percent. Basic strategy doesn't beat blackjack; it plays blackjack as well as it can be played without counting cards.

If you want the wider picture of how table games are priced, our house edge guide explains where that 0.5% figure comes from and how it compares across games.

Basic strategy only makes sense once you understand the game it's solving. Here are the mechanics in brief.

The goal is to beat the dealer by finishing with a hand total closer to 21 than theirs — without going over 21, which is a bust and an automatic loss. You are not trying to hit 21 exactly, and you are not playing against other players at the table. It's you versus the dealer, one hand at a time.

You place your wager before any cards are dealt. Once bets are down, you and the dealer each receive two cards. Your two cards are usually face up; the dealer shows one card (the upcard) and keeps one hidden (the hole card). If your first two cards total 21 — an ace plus a ten-value card — that's a natural blackjack, which normally pays 3:2. Watch for tables that pay only 6:5; that worse payout costs you money on every blackjack and is covered below.

• Aces count as 1 or 11, whichever helps your hand.
• Face cards (Jack, Queen, King) count as 10.
• Number cards (2 through 10) count at face value.

A hand with an ace counted as 11 is a soft hand (it can't bust on the next card because the ace can drop to 1). A hand with no ace, or an ace forced to count as 1, is a hard hand.

On your turn you choose from these actions:

• Hit — take another card.
• Stand — keep your total and end your turn.
• Double down — double your bet in exchange for exactly one more card.
• Split — if your two cards are a pair, separate them into two hands with a second matching bet.
• Surrender — where offered, forfeit half your bet to fold a bad hand before playing it.

After every player acts, the dealer reveals the hole card and draws to a fixed rule — typically standing on 17 or higher. Highest hand without busting wins.

There is no single "correct" chart. The right basic strategy depends on the exact rules of the table you sit at, because those rules change the underlying odds. Get the rule set wrong and you'll make a handful of decisions that quietly cost you money. Below are the rule variants that matter most.

S17 means the dealer stands on soft 17 (a total of 17 that includes an ace counted as 11). This is better for the player than the alternative. H17 means the dealer hits soft 17, giving them an extra chance to improve a stiff hand — which increases the house edge slightly and changes a few of your correct plays (for example, some doubling decisions against an ace). Always check whether your table is S17 or H17; it's usually printed on the felt.

DA2 stands for double on any two cards — you're allowed to double down on any starting hand, not just a limited range of totals. This is the standard, player-friendly rule most charts assume. Some restrictive tables only let you double on totals of 9, 10 or 11, which removes several profitable doubling opportunities that basic strategy would otherwise recommend.

DAS means double after split is allowed: after you split a pair, you can double down on one of the resulting hands. It's a small but real edge for the player and it changes several splitting decisions — a few pairs are worth splitting under DAS that you'd play differently under NDAS (no double after split). The most common all-purpose chart assumes DAS is available.

A few more variables shift the correct chart and the house edge:

• Deck count — single, double, 6-deck and 8-deck games each have marginally different optimal plays. Fewer decks generally favour the player.
• Late surrender — the option to forfeit half your bet after the dealer checks for blackjack. Where available, it's correct on a small number of very bad hands (like hard 16 vs a 10).
• European no-hole-card rule — the dealer takes the hole card only after players act, which affects doubling and splitting against a dealer ace or ten.
• 3:2 vs 6:5 blackjack payout — not a strategy rule, but the single biggest hidden cost at the table (see the math section).

For most online and land-based games, a good default is a 6-deck, S17, DAS, no-surrender chart.

The chart below is a solid all-purpose reference for the most common rule set: 6 decks, dealer stands on soft 17 (S17), double after split allowed (DAS). Rows are your hand; columns are the dealer's upcard (2 through Ace). Where surrender is offered, treat "surrender" as the first choice on the handful of hands noted underneath.

Legend: H = Hit · S = Stand · D = Double (hit if not allowed) · P = Split

Because exact cells shift with rules and deck count, always confirm your table matches this chart's assumptions — and where they differ (H17, single deck, no DAS), use a chart built for those rules instead.

The chart is the whole point. Basic strategy is the difference between an expected loss of about 0.5% and losing several times that on hunches and superstition. Every deviation from the chart — hitting when you should stand, refusing to split aces, taking insurance — hands the house extra edge. Learning the chart isn't optional if you're serious about giving your bankroll the best chance; it's the single highest-value thing a blackjack player can do. Our blackjack tips guide covers the habits that pair well with knowing the chart cold.

Hard totals are hands without an ace, or where the ace must count as 1. The short version:

• 8 or less: always hit.
• 9: double against dealer 3–6, otherwise hit.
• 10: double against dealer 2–9, otherwise hit.
• 11: double against 2–10, hit against an ace.
• 12: stand against 4–6, otherwise hit.
• 13–16: stand against 2–6 (dealer's "bust cards"), hit against 7–Ace.
• 17 and up: always stand.

The logic: when the dealer shows a weak upcard (2–6) they're likely to bust, so you stand on stiff totals and let them take the risk. When they show a strong card (7–Ace), you have to try to improve.

Soft totals contain an ace counted as 11, so they can't bust on the next card. That flexibility makes them ideal doubling hands:

• Soft 13–14 (A2, A3): double against 5–6, otherwise hit.
• Soft 15–16 (A4, A5): double against 4–6, otherwise hit.
• Soft 17 (A6): double against 3–6, otherwise hit — never stand on soft 17.
• Soft 18 (A7): stand against 2, 7 and 8; double against 3–6; hit against 9, 10 and Ace.
• Soft 19+ (A8, A9): stand.

Soft 18 is the hand players get wrong most often — it feels safe, but hitting or doubling is correct against many upcards.

When your two cards match, you can split them. The reliable rules:

• Always split aces and 8s. Aces give you two shots at 21; splitting 8s escapes a terrible hard 16.
• Never split 10s or 5s. Two tens is a made 20 — don't break it. A pair of 5s is a hard 10, so double or hit instead.
• 2s, 3s, 7s: split against dealer 2–7.
• 6s: split against 2–6.
• 9s: split against 2–6 and 8–9; stand against 7, 10 and Ace.
• 4s: split only against 5–6 (and only under DAS), otherwise hit.

Under DAS, a few of these expand slightly — another reason to know your table's rules.

Seeing the chart applied to real hands makes it stick:

• You have 16, dealer shows 10. Ugly, but you hit (or surrender if offered). Standing loses more often because the dealer's likely 20 beats your 16 — you have to try to improve. See the deep dive below on why 16 is the game's hardest hand.
• You have A-7 (soft 18), dealer shows 9. Instinct says stand on 18, but 18 loses to the dealer's likely strong hand — so you hit.
• You have 11, dealer shows 6. Double down. The dealer is in bust territory and you have the best doubling total in the game.
• You have a pair of 8s, dealer shows 10. Split. Hard 16 is a loser; two hands starting with 8 give you a fighting chance despite the strong upcard.

Notice none of these depend on "feel" — they're fixed answers you can memorise.

When you look at a hand, run the checks in this order to avoid mistakes:

1. Can I surrender, and should I? (Only a handful of hands, only where offered.)
2. Is it a pair — should I split?
3. Is it a soft total — should I double or hit?
4. Is it a hard total — hit, stand or double?

Working top-down stops you from, say, hitting a pair of 8s when you should have split them first.

Hard 16 is the most hated hand in blackjack, and the answer to "should you always hit?" is no — it depends on the dealer's upcard.

• 16 vs dealer 2–6: stand. The dealer is likely to bust, so let them take the risk.
• 16 vs dealer 7–Ace: hit (or surrender vs 9, 10 or Ace where late surrender is offered). You're a heavy underdog standing on 16 against a strong card, so you have to try to improve even though you'll often bust.

A few other borderline hands trip players up:

• 12 vs dealer 4: stand — one of the least intuitive plays, because you feel exposed on 12, but the dealer's 4 is weak enough to justify it.
• 12 vs dealer 2 or 3: hit — unlike 4, 5 and 6, these upcards aren't weak enough to sit on 12.
• A-7 (soft 18) vs 9, 10, Ace: hit, as covered above.

These are exactly the cells people "correct" from memory and get wrong. Trust the chart over your gut.

The chart looks intimidating, but you don't have to memorise every cell as a raw grid. Most players learn it as a set of roughly 20–30 simple phrases, plus a few practice sessions to lock it in.

Proven methods:

• Chunk it by hand type — learn hard totals first, then soft totals, then pairs. Each section has its own patterns.
• Use a trainer or simulator — software drills you hand by hand and flags mistakes instantly (see the practice section).
• Carry a reference card — printable PDFs, flashcards and laminated pocket cards are all fine to use at most tables and online.
• Play free/low-stakes games while glancing at the chart until the plays become automatic.

A starter set of rules-of-thumb that covers most situations:

• Always split aces and 8s; never split 10s or 5s.
• Stand on hard 17 or more, always.
• Stand on 12–16 against a dealer 2–6; hit them against 7 or higher.
• Double hard 11 against everything except an ace; double 10 against 2–9.
• Always hit soft 17 or less; hit soft 18 against 9, 10 and Ace.
• Never take insurance.

Learn those, then fill in the edge cases (soft doubles, 9s, borderline 12s) from the chart. That's the fast track from "guessing" to near-optimal play.

Basic strategy is a math tool, so it helps to know what the numbers mean.

• House edge with perfect basic strategy: about 0.5% on a favourable table (roughly 99.5% RTP). That's the theoretical long-run loss — around 50p per £100 wagered. It's an average over thousands of hands, not a promise about your next session.
• Blackjack payout matters more than most rules. A natural blackjack should pay 3:2. Some tables pay only 6:5, which sounds similar but adds well over a percent to the house edge — enough to wipe out the entire benefit of playing perfect strategy. Avoid 6:5 tables. Play 3:2.
• Rules move the edge in fractions of a percent. S17 is better than H17; DAS and DA2 help the player; surrender helps; more decks hurt slightly. None of these individually is huge, but they stack.
• Insurance and even money are bad bets. The insurance side bet has its own high house edge and isn't part of winning basic strategy — decline it every time, even with a blackjack.

The key takeaway: basic strategy gets you to ~0.5%, but only if the table rules (especially the payout) cooperate. Pick your table before you pick your plays. Our casino strategy overview puts these numbers in context across other games.

Even players who own a chart leak money by ignoring it. The frequent errors, with the correct fix:

• Standing on 16 vs a high card out of fear. Correct: hit (or surrender where allowed). Standing loses more often.
• Not splitting 8s against a 10. It feels like doubling down on a bad spot, but splitting still loses less than playing hard 16.
• Taking insurance "to protect a good hand." It's a separate losing bet. Decline it always.
• Standing on soft 18 against 9, 10 or Ace. 18 isn't strong enough there; hit.
• Playing at a 6:5 table because the seat was open. The worse payout quietly costs you more than any single decision.
• Mimicking the dealer (always hitting to 17). The dealer's fixed rules aren't optimal for a player who can double, split and stand strategically.

Myths to drop:

• "Basic strategy guarantees I'll win." It doesn't. The house still has an edge; strategy just minimises it.
• "The 777 rule is a standard payout." There's no universal "777 rule" in blackjack — some casinos run promotional side bets or bonuses paying extra for three 7s, but that's a marketing offer, not part of the base game or basic strategy. Read the rules of any specific table.
• "Other players' bad plays cost me my card." Over the long run, another player's decisions are as likely to help as hurt you; it's a wash.
• "Card counting is illegal." It isn't illegal to think — see how it builds on basic strategy below.

The fastest way to internalise the chart is to drill it, not just stare at it. Options that work:

• Basic strategy trainers/simulators deal you random hands and grade each decision in real time, so mistakes get corrected immediately. This is far more effective than passive reading.
• Printable PDF charts for your specific rule set (S17 vs H17, single vs multi-deck) let you keep the right reference beside you while you practise.
• Flashcards and physical reference cards — laminated, pocket-sized or metal — are good for spare-moment repetition.

A practical routine: drill a trainer until you hit near-100% accuracy on hard totals, then soft totals, then pairs, then mixed hands. Practising on free-play or low-stakes online tables lets you build speed with no pressure before you play for real.

Basic strategy isn't identical across deck counts — a handful of cells flip. The differences are small but real:

• Fewer decks favour the player, so single- and double-deck games have a marginally lower base house edge (assuming the payout stays 3:2, which it often doesn't on single-deck tables — watch for 6:5).
• Some doubling and pair-splitting decisions change: single-deck charts let you double a few more totals and split a couple of pairs you'd play as hits in a 6-deck game.
• The core structure — always split aces and 8s, stand on stiff totals vs weak upcards, never take insurance — stays the same across all deck counts.

If you mainly play 6- or 8-deck games (the norm online and in most casinos), the all-purpose 6-deck S17 DAS chart above is the right default. Only reach for a single-deck chart when you're actually sitting at a single-deck 3:2 table.

Basic strategy takes the house edge down to about 0.5% — but it can't push it below zero. To actually get an edge over the casino, players layer card counting on top of perfect basic strategy.

The relationship is one-way and strict: counting is worthless without basic strategy underneath it. Counting tells you when the remaining deck is rich in high cards (good for the player) so you can raise your bet and occasionally deviate from the chart. But if you can't play the base strategy flawlessly and fast, those adjustments won't help. Master the chart first.

Counting is legal (it's just thinking), but casinos can and do refuse service to suspected counters, and it's genuinely hard to do profitably. If you're curious about the mechanics, our honest walkthrough in how to count cards explains what's realistic and what isn't.

Basic strategy only pays off at a table with fair rules and a trustworthy operator. When choosing where to play, look for:

• A recognised licence. Regulators such as the UK Gambling Commission (UKGC) or Malta Gaming Authority (MGA) require fairness, fund protection and responsible-gambling tools. Check the licence details in the site footer.
• RNG certification for digital tables and audited, real-equipment studios for live-dealer blackjack. Reputable live games run on transparent, streamed dealing.
• 3:2 blackjack payouts. This is the biggest single filter — favour 3:2 tables and steer clear of 6:5.
• Player-friendly rules where possible: S17, DAS, reasonable deck counts, and clearly stated table rules before you sit down.
• Transparent terms. Any bonus should have clear wagering requirements, and blackjack often contributes little or nothing toward them — read the fine print.

For how we assess operators, see how we rate, our guide to choosing an online blackjack site, and our roundup of live blackjack tables worth your money. 18+ only, and T&Cs always apply.

Even with perfect basic strategy, the house keeps a small edge — so treat blackjack as paid entertainment, not income.

• Set a session budget you can afford to lose, and stop when it's gone. Never chase losses.
• Size your bets to your bankroll, not to how a hand "feels." A common guideline is keeping any single bet a small fraction of your total funds so variance can't wipe you out in one sitting.
• Set time limits and take breaks; fatigue causes chart mistakes.
• Skip the side bets and insurance — they carry higher house edges and aren't part of winning play.
• Use the tools. Reputable casinos offer deposit limits, reality checks, cooling-off periods and self-exclusion.

If gambling stops feeling fun or starts causing harm, help is available — see our responsible gambling resources. Support organisations like GamCare and BeGambleAware offer free, confidential advice. 18+ only. Never gamble with money you can't afford to lose.

Once basic strategy is second nature, build on it:

• Blackjack tips — the habits and table selection that complement the chart.
• How to count cards — the honest, realistic guide to the advantage technique that sits on top of basic strategy.
• Best online blackjack — how to pick a fair table and beat down the house edge.
• House edge explained — where that 0.5% comes from and how blackjack compares to every other game.